The new seeds will be available from mid August 2010 and available to order online from us.

New Flower Seeds Highlights

Aster Palette mixed

Quality plants bred for cut flowers.  Simple blooms on sturdy upright stems, just cut the whole plant and it presents as an instant bouquet.

Coreopsis Unbelievable

Striking vigorous, tall plants with masses of unbelievably coloured flowers throughout the summer, plants will fill a border or create an annual hedge.

Delphinium High Society Mixed F1

Posible the best quality flower spies you can grow from seed? Fantastic perennial blooms in a range of colours which flower in the first year.

Marigold (African) Kiku Mixed

Marigolds with a twist, the vibrant colour flowers resemble chrysanthemums in shape.  (Kiku means chrysanthemum in Japensese).

Penstemon Humming Bells Mixed

Petite plants with delightful softly coloured blooms that easily flower in their first year.  Perfect bee friendly container plants.

Phlox Moody Blues

Perfect in a 'blue' world or in a blue border, delicate shades from white through to intense blue on easy to grow plants.

Sweet Pea Summer Sizzler

A designer blend of quality, long stemmed Spencer types in some of the hottest colours available!

Sweet Pea Twighlight

A complimentary designer blend of quality, long stemmed Spencer types, this time n soft soothing combinations.

Before You Begin

Shiitake mushrooms are best when started off between April and August, this gives time for the mycelium to form before the Autumn which is the natural time for Shiitake to 'fruit'.

You'll need to buy some Shiitake Mushroom Spores personally I prefer it when the spawn is in grain rather than impregnated in the wooden dowels, as I seem to get better results.  The grain doesn't do anything other than just carry the shittake spores but makes handling much easier.

Make sure you have clean hands and tools before you start as you don't want to introduce any additional fungus spores to the mix.

You'll also need a couple of logs from a broad leaved tree; beech, birch and oak are the best choices, but definitely avoid using conifers.  Use a freshly cut log about 15cm in diameter and around 40 - 50cm long.  If you can't get hold of some logs, you can buy Mushroom Growing Boards.

The Shiitake will grow quicker if you're using mushroom boards, but they'll grow for longer in you use a log.

Sowing the Mushrooms

If you've chosen to grow your mushrooms using a log, you'll need to split the log length ways.  Again, remember to have clean hands and tools as contamination can spoil results.

If you're using growing boards, leave them to soak in tepid water for about 15 minutes, then allow them to drain in an empty sink for about 5 minutes.

Spread the grain which carries the Shiitake spores evenly on the cut side of one half of the log or on two mushroom growing boards.

Sandwich the two parts of the log back together with the grain in the middle or if using boards, sandwich them together like a club sandwich.  Tie your log or boards together with string to prevent the two parts from slipping apart.

Put the log or mushroom boards into a clear plastic bag and loosely tie it.  The bag shouldn't be tight around the boards or the log, to allow air and moisture to circulate.

Forming the Mycelium

The mycelium is a mushrooms root system, which needs to be strong for the Shiitake to be able to fruit.  It looks like a whitish mould with red patches.

After you've prepared your log or growing boards.  Put the plastic bag somewhere dark and around 25°C to incubate the mushroom spawn.  This usually takes around 2 months.

During this time, the mycelium will impregnate the log or the boards and a white woolly mould with reddy brown patches will appear on the surface.

Growing the Mushrooms

Take the mycelium covered log or boards out of the bag and re-tie if necessary.

You can grow the mushrooms indoors or outdoors now, I'm a fan of the outdoor method as Shiitake require much less attention when outside, although the mushrooms take a little longer to form.

If you're growing on indoors the log or boards need somewhere light but not in direct sunlight.  Keep away from strong draughts.  Make sure your log or boards don't dry out, they'll need misting and watering with clean water.  If it does dry out - game over.  Ideally the temperature should be between 12 and 25ºC

To grow on outdoors, plant the log or boards in a sheltered position with approximately 3/4 of the log or boards underground.  Mushrooms generally form during the Autumn and Spring rains, but again try to keep them between 12 and 25ºC and protect from frosts.  The log or boards should still be kept moist, but this is much easier to do in a garden.

Harvesting

The Shiitake will grow during the Autumn and Spring months and can carry on for up to 3 years (less with boards).  Pick the mushrooms while they're still young and before the caps completely unfurl.

Keep the fresh mushrooms refrigerated in a paper bag for up to 14 days.

Drying

You can dry any surplus shiitake by putting them in an oven at 90ºC overnight with the oven door open slightly.  You can then keep them for up to 12 months in an air tight container.

A Word of Caution

When picking your mushrooms always check you have the correct variety, incase contamination occurred.  Some people are allergic to mushrooms or their spores and could be sensitive to high concentrations.

Improving clay soils is quite a challenge and does need some hard work but I'm sure you'll agree the end results are worth it.

The key to breaking up clay soil is by working in plenty of organic matter. Using a garden fork break up any large clay clumps and loosely work the soil by stabbing with the fork and gently wiggle it in the soil.

Add a layer of compost or blended manure about 5cm deep to the top of the soil. Using the fork, turn the soil, mixing it with the compost.

Add another layer of compost or manure, again about 5cm deep and dig in. Try to breakup as much of the clay as possible while you mix in this second layer.

Finish by adding a layer of mulch 5 - 10cm which will gradually breakdown to prevent the soil from getting compacted again.

Tips

• When planting, dig a hole twice as large as needed and add fresh compost.
• Don't use sand to improve drainage, this will make the clay soil stick together even more.
• Each spring, add another deep layer of mulch.

For 2010 we have eight new varieties available.

Big Brother

A beautiful rich yellow dahlia with a dinner plate bloom.

Edge of Joy

A very delicate pink dahlia with striking dark pink edges which gives a stunning contast to the blooms.

Cambridge

A spring yellow colour with strokes of red on the petals

Chocolate Candy

A dahlia with rich pink flower heads which contrast nicely against dark bronze foliage.

Blue Boy

A delicate lavender blue flower head will add an unusual feel to your display.

Myrtle's Folly

Has multi-hued cactus flower heads in pink and yellow and is truly beautiful.

Purple Haze

Has deep purple anemone flower heads and is ideal for you to grow in pots.

Sunshine

This dahlia has mignon flowers in a rich yellow with vibrant orange centres which definitely makes you think 'sunshine'.

For those of you who love dahlias you can be sure that these new varieties will add something special to your display this summer.

In March, using either seed trays or small pots filled with moist compost, plant the begonia tuber hollow side up just below the soil level.  Keep the seed tray or pots in a windowsill where the temperature does not fall below about 16C.  Water sparingly until growth appears.

To encourage quick growth cover with paper or polythene or if in a seed tray, a propagator lid.  Remove the cover as soon as you spot the first signs of growth.

Once the shoots begin to show, the growth becomes more rapid.  Give the Begonias the maximum amount of light you can without exposing them to strong midday sun.  Water regularly now and never allow the soil to become dry.  An application of a good liquid plant food will improve growth.

Begonias thrive in semi-shade and should not be subjected to the midday sun.  Begonias dislike dry conditions, so water generously especially in periods of hot weather.  Every two or three weeks, feed with a well balanced plant food such as Miracle-Gro or Miracle Gro Organic Choice.

Remove all wilted leaves and flowers to encourage flowering throughout the summer months.

Enjoy !

Always plant your dahlia tubers in the spring and select tubers which are free from cuts and nicks or any sign of rot.

Selecting the right part of your garden is important as dahlias benefit from full sun. Make sure the soil has warmed after the winter as cold soil may stunt their growth.

Step 1

Work in some organic compost to a depth of  45cm. Dahlias grow very quickly and will appreciate good growing conditions.

Step 2

Using a trowel make a hole that is twice as deep and wide as your dahlia tuber. Adding  bonemeal in the bottom of  each hole will provide essential nutrients needed for good root growth.

Step 3

Place your dahlia tuber in the bottom of the hole and fill in with soil to just cover the top of the tuber.

Step 4

As you begin to see new growth appear cover again with soil. Covering the stem gradually will cause the stem to strengthen so it can support the flowers.

Step 5

When your dahlia tubers are growing above ground water deeply to encourage strong roots.

The sprouter unit is so easy to use and the best part is that there is no soil or compost involved, hence no dirty hands. Just soak the sprouting seeds overnight, rinse them the following day in clean water and then pop them in the sprouter unit. Place the unit on a shady windowsill and water them twice a day for the next 3 to 5 days and they're ready to eat.

What could be more simple? The sprouter unit is definitely suitable for children, being both fun to grow and educational. Children love to grow seeds but also love to see instant results which they can easily achieve with the sprouter unit. Within a week they can eat the fruits of their labour which is an added and highly nutritional bonus!

The sprouting seeds, when ready, are full of essential vitamins and trace minerals all necessary for a healthy diet, particularly the B vitamins which help our bodies cope with the stresses of everyday life. They also help assist our immune systems to fight attack and guard against anaemia. The alfalfa and clover seeds also have the added bonus of being high in protein so they are especially good for vegetarians and vegans.

The resulting sprouting seeds can be used to make some very flavoursome and interesting salads, unusual stir fries and exotic sandwiches. They will also stay fresh ready for use in the fridge for up to a week. A very tasty lentil soup can be made from the sprouting lentil seeds, simply use the sprouting seeds, weight for weight, in your favourite soup recipe instead of the normal dried red or green lentils and taste the difference.

An ideal accompaniment for the sprouter unit is the Geo Sprout Book which gives you many more exciting food and beverage recipes, whether you want to use the sprouting seeds in food or in a drink. The Geo Sprout Book also gives general growing information to enable you to become a 'champion sprouter'.

No mess, no waste and all organic. Growing your own organic greens has never been easier. Happy sprouting!

Plant Me Now provide a multitude of gardening tips and tricks as well as a wide range of garden tools, plants, seeds and sundries at their online garden centre at http://www.plantmenow.co.uk

Before setting out to grow tomatoes outdoors you should pay careful attention to the type and variety of tomato you wish to grow as some varieties are simply not suitable for growing outside where as others suit containers or pots for gardeners who have limited space. The soil should be humus-rich and well-drained and well prepared long before planting.

If you are starting your tomatoes from seed then you will need to sow them under glass in late March or early April in order to harden them off during May ready for plating outside in late May or early June. If you're planning on growing your tomatoes under cloches then mid-May will be fine providing the weather looks promising. All being well and providing the UK receives average weather conditions for this time of year your tomatoes will be ready for harvesting around the middle of August.

Soil Facts

To be able to grow tomatoes outdoors you need to ensure you have a warm space in your garden available in which to plant them. Ideally in front of a south facing wall but any position that is sunny and not too exposed should be sufficient. During the winter months prior to planting your tomatoes you should work some garden compost and peat into the soil and apply some fertilizer just before planting.

The number of tomato plants you intend to grow is also a factor as if you only need to grow a few plants then you may find planting in pots, containers or specialised tomato planters easier to manage. These pots can be positioned on balconies or patios but if opting for this method you must remember to water and feed your plants more frequently.

Sowing and Planting

The instructions for growing tomato seedlings can be found in our 'How to Grow Tomatoes in the Greenhouse' guide by clicking here. However, if this is your first time growing tomatoes then you may want to consider buying seedlings from a reputable supplier or online garden centre. These seedlings will arrive ready for planting out so ensure to check that they are healthy. Look for dark green, sturdy seedlings which are at least 8 inches tall. Be ready to plant out your seedlings into pots, containers or upside down grow bags when the flowers on the first trusses open, remembering to water the plants thoroughly before planting.

Looking after the crop

Looking after your tomato crop throughout the growing cycle will differ depending on the type of tomatoes you are growing. Cordon varieties will need to be staked or tied to a cane at 12in intervals as the plants grow. Any side shoots that appear will need to be cut or pinched out when they are about 1inch long. Like with indoor tomatoes you will need to ensure that the soil is kept moist at all times as irregular or sporadic watering may lead to the contraction of blossom end rot or fruit splitting, two ailments your tomatoes could do without.

Harvesting

Like when grown indoors in a greenhouse tomatoes that are grown outside will be ripe and fully coloured when they are ready for harvesting. Again you should hold the tomato in your palm and with your thumb break of the fruit at the knuckle (swelling within the flower stalk).

Outdoor Tomato Varieties

Outdoor tomatoes are typically classified into 2 groups; Cordon varieties and Bush varieties.

Cordon Varieties

Cordon varieties are single stem varieties and have to be trimmed and supported. The stem should be stopped after the 4th truss has set to hasten ripening before the autumn frosts. Some popular Cordon varieties include:

• Ailsa Craig - produces bright medium-sized fruits that mature early and are a tomato accredited for their full flavour.
• Golden Sunrise - typical choice for anyone wanting yellow tomatoes, Golden Sunrise tomatoes are medium-sized and have a distinctive taste.
• Tumbler (Tumbling Tom) - this variety of tomatoes can be grown in a pot or in a hanging basket.
• Tigerella - these early maturing tomatoes are very distinctive thanks to their red and yellow stripes when mature.
• Gardeners Delight - a favourite with more experienced gardeners, the Gardeners Delight gives bite-sized tomatoes with a tangy flavour and is best grown outdoors.
• Saint Pierre - A large, irregular shaped tomato that is deep red in colour and produces high yields.

Gemini - medium-sized and sweet tomato that does well in cooler summers.

Bush Varieties

These varieties are much easier to grow tomatoes outdoors; they are either bushes 1-2ft high or creeping plants less than 9 inches tall. They require trimming, supporting or stopping.

Pests and Diseases

Tomatoes are highly susceptible to attack from a large number of diseases and pests with disease being most prevalent. However, tomatoes that are grown outside are far less likely to suffer than those grown inside. By paying careful attention to your tomato plants as they grow you should be able to spot the warning signs early on and catch diseases before they have a chance to set in on your tomato crop. Some of the most common diseases known to plague tomato plants include:

Greenback - Common symptoms of Greenback include the area around the stalk hardening and remaining green and unripe. The two main causes include lack of potash or too much sunlight and there is no treatment available. Steps to avoid Greenback include the provision of good ventilation and regular application of potash-rich fertilizer.
• Split Fruit - A very common complaint in tomatoes grown both under glass and outdoors. Typically caused by heavy rain or watering after the soil around the root has dried out. The sudden increase in size causes the fruits skin to split. Again there is no treatment available but ensuring roots are kept moist is a good way to avoid it.
• Hollow Fruit - Caused by poor pollination conditions (air too hot, too cold or too dry) or too much potash. There is no treatment but by trying to avoid the above your crop should be fine.
• Virus - There are several viruses that are common in tomatoes but typical symptoms include mottled leaves, curled stems which have dark vertical streaks or thin and distorted foliage. Fruit of infected plants is often mottled and bronzed. Unfortunately there is no proven cure for infected plants and affected plants should be destroyed. In order to prevent viruses try to buy virus-free plants from reputable suppliers, don't handle after smoking and spray to control greenfly.
• Tomato Leaf Mould - Evidence your plants are suffering from Tomato Leaf Mould include purplish brown mould patches on the underside of the leaves with the upper side of the leaf having yellow coloured patches. This can be treated by removing lower leaves and spraying the plant with mancozeb as soon as the disease is identified.
• Greenhouse Whitefly - For plants that are grown indoors Greenhouse Whitefly are likely to be the most common threat. The adult fly and their larvae feed off the plants until they become pale and curled and the foliage is left sticky with black mould growing on the honeydew. There is no easy way to get rid of these pests but spraying with bifenthrin regularly until the plants are cleared should work adequately. An alternative method is to hang fly catcher strips above your plants.

For more information or to order tomato seeds from one of the UK's leading online garden centre visit Plant Me Now at www.plantmenow.co.uk.

Tomatoes are not the easiest of plants to grow and they require quite a lot of care and attention throughout the growth cycle during the summer months. They are also susceptible to a large variety of diseases and pests which can put some home growers off. When and where to plant and grow tomatoes will depend entirely upon the type of tomatoes you wish to grow and the conditions within which you wish to grow them.

Typically, tomato plants suitable for growth in a greenhouse are Cordon varieties. These single stemmed plants can reach heights of up to 6ft if not controlled. Some of the most common varieties include the Ailsa Craig, Alicante or Moneymaker but there are loads of other varieties to sample.

When to plant tomatoes?

In aheated greenhouse, tomato seeds are sown in late December and planted out in late February or early March for a May-June crop. However, if you are using a cold or unheated greenhouse, like most gardeners across the UK you should sow the seeds in early March and plant out in late April or early May. The first fruit should be ready for picking in July.

Sowing and planting

When growing tomatoes it is important to decide how many you intend to grow as if you are planning on growing a large number of tomato plants in your greenhouse then it is advisable to stick to the conventional method of sowing thinly in trays filled with seed and cutting compost. Whilst at this stage in the growing cycle the plants should be kept moist but not too wet and once seedlings have formed a pair of true leaves, prick them out into 3in pots filled with potting compost.

If, however, you are only planning on growing a few tomato plants then it will probably be easier to sow the seeds in 3in. peat pots of compost. Your other alternative is to buy in tomato plants from a reputable online garden centre or supplier and plant out once the seedlings reach 6-8inches tall and the flowers on the first truss are beginning to open. Water the pot thoroughly before planting and plant around 18inches apart.

Looking after the crop

During the growing process tomato plants will require a great deal of care and attention, especially if you want to get the best fruits from the plants. One of the first things you can do to ensure you get the best from your tomato crop is to tie the main stem loosely to a cane or wind it up a well-anchored but slack vertical string. When side shoots appear where the leaf joins the stem, trim these off when they reach approximately 1inch long.

When your tomato plants grow to around 4ft tall it is time to remove the leaves below the first truss. Remove yellowing leaves below fruit trusses as the season progresses but be careful not to overdo this process. Remember to water your tomato plants regularly as irregular watering could lead to blossom end rot or fruit splitting. You should also feed your plants with a soluble tomato fertilizer every time you water them and if you choose to grow tomatoes in a grow bag then you must water them regularly.

For best results adequate ventilation is essential during the summer months and if the temperatures reach 80ºF or more then you should take care to provide adequate shade. Mist or spray plants and gently tap supports during the growing process to aid pollen dispersion and fruit set and remove the tip of plants that reach the top of the greenhouse at 2 leaves above the top of the truss.

Soil Facts

Most tomatoes can be grown and do well in border soil and raised beds give better results than beds that are at ground level. Try adding in a little peat or small amount of compost before planting and mix in some Growmore fertilizer for the better results. You may have to be prepared to move or replace your border soil with each season as border soil is commonly known to become infested with soil pests and root diseases necessitating a need for the soil to be removed and replaced or sterilised.

Harvesting

You will know when it is time to pick your tomato fruits as they will be ripe and rich in colour. To remove the fruits safely from the plant hold the tomato in your palm and with your thumb break of the fruit at the knuckle (swelling within the flower stalk). Towards the end of the season you can begin to remove stems from the canes and supports and laid under cloches on a bed of straw. An alternative way to ripen fruit is to put them in a drawer next to some ripe apples which will produce the ripening gas ethylene.

Greenhouse Tomato Varieties

Ordinary Varieties

This group of red salad tomatoes contains some of the most popular varieties that are commonly grown across the UK. These varieties owe their popularity to the fact that they are reliable, full of flavour and can produce early crops.

• Ailsa Craig - produces bright medium-sized fruits that mature early and are a tomato accredited for their full flavour.
• Moneymaker - one of the most popular varieties amongst amateur gardeners; the Moneymaker produces medium-sized fruits but don't have as fuller flavour as the Ailsa Craig variety.
• Alicante - similar in type to the Moneymaker variety, Alicante tomatoes are reliable, heavy-cropping and importantly are resistant to Greenback.

F1 Hybrid

F1 Hybrid tomatoes are very similar to the ordinary varieties but with a few added advantages including higher yields and a higher degree of disease resistance.

• Tumbler (Tumbling Tom) - this variety of tomatoes can be grown in a pot or in a hanging basket.
• Estrella - this tomato variety is extremely disease resistant which improves its appeal with some gardeners
• Eurocross - these tomatoes are an excellent choice for gardeners looking to grow plants in a heated greenhouse. They produce large fruits and are immune to Greenback

Beefsteak

Beefsteak tomatoes are large and meaty and may need support once reaching a certain size. There are 3 types of Beefsteak tomato; the true beefsteaks such as the Dombito, the F1 Hybrids such as the Big Boy and the Marmandes which are only really suited to outdoor growing.

• Big Red - the most popular of all the giant or beefsteak tomatoes the Big Red can produce fruit up to 1lb in weight if left to grow 3 fruits per truss.
• Dombello - considered one of the best beefsteak varieties the Dombello has large flattened globes that are borne early with very good flavour.

Novelty Tomatoes

Perhaps not as popular as red tomatoes, yellow or striped novelty tomatoes deserve more attention, especially when you consider that the first tomatoes sent to Europe were gold in colour and not red.

• Golden Sunrise - typical choice for anyone wanting yellow tomatoes, Golden Sunrise tomatoes are medium-sized and have a distinctive taste.
• Tigerella - these early maturing tomatoes are very distinctive thanks to their red and yellow stripes when mature.
• San Marzano - an Italian variety that is egg-shaped and has firm flesh.

Tomato Pests and Diseases

Tomatoes are susceptible to a variety of different pests and diseases, all of which are discussed in our guide 'How to Grow Tomatoes Outdoors' which can be seen by clicking here.

Plant Me Now is a leading online garden centre based in the UK. For more information about their extensive range of garden supplies including tomato seeds, Upside down tomato planters please visit the website at www.plantmenow.co.uk

Lilies can be found across the globe in Europe, the North Mediterranean, Asia, India and throughout North America. Most lily species prefer moderately acidic or lime-free soils although many of the more modern hybrids are much more lime tolerant. Nearly all lilies prefer to have their feet in the shade but heads in the sun and come in all sizes and colours except blue.

Lilies typically have 3 flower forms or shapes; Bowl shaped, Trumpet shaped or Turk's Cap shaped.

• Bowl Shaped - Petals flare open to produce a wide bowl and the flowers are usually very large.
• Trumpet Shaped - Petals are grouped together for part of the length of the flower to produce a basale tube.
• Turk's-Cap Shaped - Petals are rolled and swept back and are usually small flowers.

If you have decided to grow lilies then your best option is to try and grow them from bulb first as they can be particularly difficult to grow from seed if you are a beginner. When buying lily bulbs it is important to remember than unlike most other garden plant varieties lily bulbs have no protective outer skin which means they cannot be stored but instead be planted out straight away.

Many species are widely grown in the garden in temperate and sub-tropical regions. Sometimes they may also be grown as potted plants. A large number of ornamental hybrids have been developed. They can be used in herbaceous borders, woodland and shrub plantings, and as a patio plant.

Planting Lilies in the Garden

Lily bulbs can be planted from late summer right through until early spring in well-drained soil that is frost free, however, most lily varieties will do just fine in regular soil types. If your soil is light then prepare it by enriching it with organic matter and lighten heavy soil with peat or coarse sand. Most garden variety lilies prefer sunny sites but will tolerate light shade throughout the course of the day.

As lilies are stem-rooting and produce roots on the stem above the bulb as well as at the base you should try to give the lower parts of the plants some shade from low-growing perennials or shrubs. Try not to plant lilies in exposed areas as tall growing varieties may require some wind shelter. Nearly all modern Lily hybrids will tolerate soil with some lime content.

It is very important that you do not let lilies dry out during the summer months so ensure that you water them thoroughly during extremely dry weather. Taller varieties should be staked before reaching 3ft and fed with a liquid fertilizer occasionally. When the time comes for dead-heading, nip off any faded flowers before the seeds are able to form as this will ensure that the plant remains strong, and allow the stems to die down naturally towards the end of the season before cutting off at ground level once dead.

Common Lily Pests and Diseases

Two of the biggest problems plaguing Lilies are slugs and Lily Beetles which are highly distinctive due to their bright red colour. Slugs commonly chew through lily stems and destroy the plant until next years bloom. Be careful to treat slugs quickly by applying slug pellets or Slug Bait around the stems of your plants and remove Lily Beetles by hand or by spraying the plants with an effective pest control spray. Another common ailment in Lilies is Botrytis which is capable of killing infected plants. Botrytis can be controlled by systematic fungicide treatment.

Propagation

Lilies can be propagated in several different ways including dividing up the bulbs, by seed, by micropropagation or by scaling which involves whole scales being detached from one bulb and planted to form a new bulb. Growing lilies from seed is a very complex process which is why most gardeners opt for bulb division or scaling propagation methods. With scaling you will need to remove plump scales and re-plant each one in seed and cutting compost so that the bottom of each scale is buried. Within approximately 6 weeks tiny bulbs should appear at the base of the scales which will require re-planting in 3in pots and kept in a cold frame or cold greenhouse.

Types of Lilies - Species and Hybrids

In most cases lilies are categorized in two ways: species and hybrids. Most of the lilies commonly found in UK gardens are hybrids which vary greatly according to their parent species and are often classified into one of the following divisions or groups:

Species (also known as Division IX) - This group includes all natural species and true lilies including:

• Lilium Regale - Sometimes referred to as the Regal Lily or Lilium Trumpet Regale. This is a very special lily that is perfect for both amateur and experienced gardeners. This lily has white trumpet shaped flowers with a yellow throat and rich scent.
• Lilium Henryi - A Chinese species with later flowering orange flowers. A very robust lily that is capable of plenty of height.
• Lilium Candidum - The beautiful Madonna Lily which is native to the Middle East and Balkan regions. Highly fragrant and very popular.
• Lilium Lancifolium - A late flowering orange Turk's Cap shaped flower with dark spots.

Hybrids

• Asiatic Hybrids or Division I - Lilies belonging to this group are derived from central and East Asian species and are medium sized plants with outward facing unscented flowers. Asiatic hybrids flower during mid-summer and include the popular Asiatic Marrakech which is famous for its deep red flowers, the Lilium Vivaldi and the Citronella Group noted for their Turk's Cap shaped yellow flowers.
• Martagon Hybrids - The Lilies within this group have Turk's Cap style flowers with strongly re-curved petals. Common Division II varieties include the Lilium Martgon and Lilium Hansonii.
• Candidum Hybrids or Division III - This group is made up of European species such as the Lilium Candidum or Madonna Lily.
• American Hybrids (Division IV) - Tall growing, clump-forming plants that are derived from the Lilium Pardalinum.
• Longiflorum Hybrids (Division V) - Considered to be the most important group for producing high quality cut flowers, Division V lilies are all cultivars of the parent species Longiflorum and its sub-species. As important cut flowers many of the varieties belonging to this group have been developed for particular markets, for example, the Lilium Longflorum is commonly used at Easter time when it is commonly referred to as the Easter Lily.
• Trumpet Lilies or Division VI - This division includes many of the popular Asiatic species including the Lilium Regale and Lilium Aurelianse. Flowers are trumpet shaped and highly fragrant.
• Oriental Hybrids (Division VII) - Based on Lilium Auratum and Lilium Speciosum and Asiatic crossbreeds, flowers belonging to this group are fragrant, outward facing, large and tall growing. The Lilium Oriental Merostar is a particularly notable variety.
• Other Hybrids (Division VIII) - This group includes all other garden varieties and hybrids.

For more information about how to grow lilies or to order some lily bulbs why not visit Plant Me Now at www.plantmenow.co.uk.