Symptoms and Clues

Close up of a leatherjacket

Brown or yellow patches will appear on the lawn.  The leatherjackets will eat the roots of the grass which means your grass gets less water.  The problem is more visible in times of drought as there's less water to go around.

You may also notice an large number of birds pecking at the brown areas.  They aren't damaging the lawn, but they are hunting for the leatherjackets which are beneath the surface. Foxes and other animals will also feed on leatherjackets, scratching the surface of lawn to uncover the leatherjackets below.

In August/September you can see daddy long legs hopping along the surface of the lawn laying their eggs, this is a dead giveaway that there's a problem.

Test for Leatherjackets

An easy way to find out if you have leatherjackets:

• In the evening during Summer, thoroughly water a patch of lawn where you suspect leatherjacket activity.
• Cover the patch with a bin liner or piece of polythene.
• The next day, lift the polythene and any leatherjackets will have risen to the surface.

Treatment

Provado Lawn Grub Killer

You can treat the problem with Provado Lawn Grub Killer.  Most people aren't aware of the cause until they see the daddy long legs appear in August and September, but if you're aware you have a problem you can apply Provado earlier.  Provado Lawn Grub Killer is a contact and systemic insecticide, one treatment lasts all season.

Safety and Environmental Information

Children and pets need not be excluded from treated areas once dry.  Grazing animals like rabbits and Guinea pigs should be kept away from treated areas for 4 weeks.

The chemical in provado lawn grub killer can be hazardous to bees, always mow the lawn before applying (to remove any flowering weeds like dandelions, buttercups or daisies) and apply in the late evening that way bees won't be around until it has dried.  Do not use when lowering weeds are present.

Do not apply near ponds or streams.

Provado Lawn Grub Killer contains imidacloprid, always read the label, use safely.

There are two main different types of lawn food, lawn food applied as granules and food that's applied as a liquid - there are pros and cons for each.  Many lawn foods can have a lawn weedkiller or moss killer in addition to the lawn food.  Couple these factors together with the vast difference in size between a very small lawn and a large lawn and you can see why there are so many different products on the shelf.

Questions to Ask Before You Decide

Before you read on there's some key questions to as yourself which will help you decide on the best lawn fertiliser to use.

1. Is there a problem with weeds such as dandelions, buttercups or clover
2. Is there moss in the lawn

The next thing to start to think about is just how much time do you want to spend caring for your grass - are you looking for a quick fix, a one off application or are you willing to go that extra mile for a lush green grass?

The Quick Fix

Not a good idea if you've got weeds or moss but definitely ideal if you've having a BBQ at the weekend.  Using a liquid or soluble lawn food 3-5 days before will give the green up the grass and give the lawn a boost.  Don't choose a fertiliser which also contains a weedkiller or moss killer as this might lead to bare patches or thin areas - which isn't ideal if you're entertaining.

There's three products I'd recommend to pick between:  Supergreen Soluble Lawn Food, Miracle-Gro Lawn Food and Miracle-Gro Lush Lawn.

Supergreen Soluble Lawn Food, made by Phostrogen, has the highest proportion of nitrogen (great in Summer) but now Phostrogen don't make a feeder, Supergreen can only be applied with a watering can which can make feeding the lawn more trouble than it should be.

Miracle-Gro Lawn Food can be applied with a watering can, but the job is much easier in the Miracle-Gro Feeder which attaches to a hose pipe.  Miracle-Gro's lawn food also has a relatively high ratio of nitrogen, an ideal Summer food.

Miracle-Gro Lush Lawn is a very simple product to use, screw it into a Miracle-Gro LiquaFeed Gun and water with the hose.  Although the feed blend is more balanced than other feeds, it'll still green the lawn in about 3 days.

Little Effort - Maximum Impact

If you don't want to spend much time fussing over your lawn, but you'd still like green, moss and weed-free grass then this is the solution for you.

Rather than giving your lawn a quick burst of food, granular lawn feeds release nutrients steadily so there's more time left between applications.  Many granular feeds also contain a weedkiller and moss killer.

I'm only going to recommend one product now, whether you have a weed and moss problem or not.  EverGreen Complete 4 in 1 gets it so right when it comes to fertiliser.  It's not so much the blend of nutrients themselves, but the way in which they are released.  Rather than a burst of feed after application, EverGreen Complete is control released so you don't get sudden growth spurts and the constant need to mow.  It also has the added side effect of keeping weeds and moss under control.  To my knowledge, the only way other brands have achieved similar results is by having much lower level of nutrients - which in my mind, defeats the object of feeding the lawn!

Make sure you apply granular feeds evenly, use a  Lawn Spreader to help get the dosage right.  Be careful not to overlap; any area that receives a double dose of food could grow quicker than the rest of the lawn or worse still overdoses on fertiliser and die (scorch).

Summary

Once you've weighed up the pros and cons between soluble/liquid feeds and granular feeds, decided if you need an added weedkiller or moss killer or whether you're going to use a separate product for that, the only choice left to make is size.  Generally lawn fertiliser is sold in quantities to treat an area (rather than weight) so measure the size of you lawn before you start shopping.  Provided you keep it dry and dark, lawn food will keep for the following year, so it's better to have a little left over than to run out and leave a gap at the end of the garden.

The Legal Bit

As one of the products mentioned contains a weedkiller and moss killer we must point out:

• EverGreen Complete 4 in 1 contains MCPA, mecoprop-P and ferrous sulphate

Always read the label, use safely.

January

Keep off the lawn in January unless you need to go on it to brush off fallen leaves.  Take your lawn mower for a service.

February

Don't cut the lawn in February, brush off any worm casts that may be on the surface using a besom or other soft broom.

March

Scarify the lawn using a lawn scarifier or spring tine lawn rake.  This will remove any thatch that has formed over the winter and get the lawn ready for its first cut of the year.

Give the lawn two light cuts in March a fortnight apart.  March is also a good time to overseed the lawn if it needs thickening after removing the thatch.  Trim and neaten the edges of the lawn.

April

Begin weed control and apply a moss killer if moss is a problem in your lawn.  Mow the lawn every 7 - 10 days gradually lowering the cut but don't go below 2cm (1").  Keep the edges of the lawn trimmed.

May

Increase mowing to every 7 days with the height of the mower at Summer levels.  May is the best month to kill weeds as the soil is still moist but the weeds are growing fast.  Keep an eye on the lawn and water it if it looks like it is drying out.

June

You can mow the lawn twice a week in June provided it's not too hot and dry.  During dry spells, raise the height on the mower and keep at once a week.  Kill any weeds that remain - raking the lawn before mowing will keep clover under control.

July

Mow regularly.  Give the lawn a Summer feed preferably during a showery spell.  Keep an eye on the lawn to check it's not drying out.

August

Rake the lawn before mowing to keep clover runners under control.  Mow the lawn weekly at Summer heights.

September

Mowing can now be decreased to once every 10-14 days, gradually raise the height of the cut.  Aerate the lawn with a spike aerator.  If any diseases are spotted, use something like Lawn Disease Control to treat the lawn.  Feed the lawn with an Autumn lawn food.  September is a good month to overseed if necessary.

October

This is the last month for regular mowing, raise the mowing height to 2cm.  Mowing should be done every 10 - 14 days.  If you haven't already, spike and feed the lawn with an Autumn lawn food.

Level out any bumps and hollows this month and brush away any worm casts that may have formed.  Keep brushing any fallen leaves off the lawn as the trees start to drop them.

November

If the weather is still mild, a final cut may still be necessary, keep the blades set high.  Brush any fallen leaves off the lawns and brush away any worm casts that may have formed.

December

Other than brushing away any fallen leaves, you can keep off the lawn.

The Legal Bit

• Lawn Disease Control contains Trifloxystrobin

Always read the label, use pesticides safely.

How Often Should I Mow the Lawn?

Give the lawn two very light cuts in March, try to brush any fallen leaves or debris off the lawn before you start.  In April start mowing once every 10 days or weekly if you prefer.  Mow the lawn every week from May through until August - if you have an adjustable mower, gradually lower the settings each time so you are at the lowest point by mid-summer.

In September and October you can reduce the frequency down to once every 10 - 14 days.  Raise the height of the cut in October so the last couple of cuts are at least 2cm.  If the weather is still mild in November, give the lawn a final light mow before the winter begins.

When is the Best Time to Lay Turf?

The best time to lay turf is March - April or September - October when the ground is moist and the weather is mild.  You can lay turf in May and June or in November but avoid the very hot months like July and August and the cold winter months between December and February.

When Should I Aerate the Lawn?

Most lawns will benefit from a light aeration twice a year in Spring and Autumn.  The best months to pick would be March and October.  Use a spike aerator unless you suffer from particularly poor drainage, then a hollow tine aerator is best.

When Should I Scarify the Lawn?

The best time to scarify your lawn is in March and October.  Scarifying removes moss and thatch from the lawn and improves air circulation and nutrients.  Lawns will benefit from scarifying twice a year before and after the main growing season.

When is the Best Time to Sow Grass Seed?

Although grass seed will germinate when sown any time between March and the end of October, the best time to sow grass seed is between April and May or September and October.  At these times of year, the soil is warm but the weather is not too hot or cold.  You'll also need to worry less about keeping the new lawn watered.

When Should I Feed My Lawn?

Your grass will benefit from being fed from April and then throughout the Summer.  There are many different types of lawn food available and really it just comes down to convenience as to how you prefer to use them.  Stop feeding with normal lawn feeds in September.  In September or October, feed your lawn with an Autumn lawn food.  This will help strengthen the grass before the cold winter months set in.

When Do I Kill Weeds in My Lawn?

The best time to control the weeds in your lawn is between April and June.  You can also benefit from giving the weeds one last treatment in September.  At these times the weeds are actively growing which makes the weedkiller more effective.  Make sure you pick a selective lawn weedkiller a product like Verdone Extra will kill the weeds but won't kill your lawn.

When Is the Best Time to Kill Moss in My Lawn?

Killing moss is best done in April and May.  Dead moss will turn black and needs to be raked out (it's much easier when it's dead) and usually leaves a bare or thinning patch.  You can kill moss most of the year, but you'll find the bare patches easier to fill as the grass grows quickly during the summer months.  Most lawn moss killers contain ferrous sulphate (sulphate of iron) which is also used as a plant food.  Be careful not to get it on your patio as it makes rusty stains if not washed off quickly.

The Legal Bit

• Verdone Extra contains fluroxypyr clopyralid and MCPA

Always read the label, use safely.

It's Not All About Mowing

When most people think about lawn maintenance, the first thing that comes to mind is mowing.  Of course, mowing the lawn is a regular garden job, but mowing just keeps the grass short and the dandelions at bay.

Aerate your Lawn

Aerating the lawn twice a year, ideally in March and October with a spike aerator will get air to the roots and allow water and nutrients to get deeper into the soil.  The stronger the roots, the stronger the lawn.

The ground gets compacted over time which will impact on drainage, so once every couple of years (unless you have a big drainage problem) use a hollow tine aerator instead of the spike aerator.  The hollow tine aerator removes plugs of soil from the lawn which makes more space.  You can then sweep silver sand into these holes using an old broom which will give the roots more space to breathe and the water more chance to drain through.

Read more about Aerating Your Lawn here.

Scarify Your Lawn

If you look closely at you grass, you'll probably notice old brown grass right next to the soil.  This is thatch.  Thatch consists of old, dead grass and small clippings that weren't collected when you were mowing.  It's a good idea to rake this out using a scarifier or lawn rake.  This will give your grass more space to grow and this is what will give your lawn that thick green look.

Scarifying should be done twice a year.  Once in March/April and again after the Summer in September/October.

Feed Your Lawn

Lawn food should be applied from April through to September.  Personally, I'm a big fan of EverGreen Complete as it lasts for weeks and slowly releases its nutrients evenly over time.  Unlike most granular feeds which give you a burst of green after application, the graduel release means you don't need to run out with a mower a few days after it's been applied.

One of the added side effects of using EverGreen Complete is that it will also kill moss and any broad leaved weeds in your lawn.  Any dead moss will turn black in a few days and is very easy to rake out.

It's safe to use EverGreen Complete if you have children and pets, but you shouldn't let them on the lawn until after the first rainfall (or you could give the grass a quick water after you've applied the feed) as the weedkiller needs to be washed in.  Once the lawn is dry, it's perfectly fine for pets and kids to play.

Quick Results

For those needing a quick fix use a soluble or liquid feed.  This will get absorbed by the roots straight away giving visible results in a couple of days rather than a week.  I'd recommend a feed like Miracle-Gro Lawn Food or Miracle-Gro Lush Lawn both of which can be used with a hosepipe which makes it much easier! Miracle-Gro Lawn Food can be applied with the Miracle-Gro Feeder while Miracle-Gro Lush Lawn can be applied with a LiquaFeed Gun - don't get this the wrong way round :)

Yes liquid and soluble lawn foods give quick results, but they don't last so need re-applying every couple of weeks.  Miracle-Gro Lawn Food and Lush Lawn don't kill weeds or moss, so if you have a problem with either of these you'll need a separate lawn weedkiller or moss killer.

Feed in Autumn

It's a very good idea to give your lawn a last feed in the Autumn but NOT with the same food you've been feeding with during the growing season.  Using an Autumn Lawn Food in September or October will strengthen the grass over the cold winter ahead but as Autumn Feeds don't contain much Nitrogen then won't make the grass grow sappy and weak.

Kill Weeds in your Lawn

Some people are lucky and don't suffer from weeds.  If you do, don't panic, they're very simple to get under control.  If you haven't fed your lawn with a Feed and Weedkiller mix, then there are selective weed killers available which just kill broad leaved weeds so won't kill the grass.  One of the most popular of these is Verdone Extra which is cost effective when you buy the concentrate and use it in a pressure sprayer alternatively if you don't have many weeds, then a ready to use spray is available.

Kill Moss

Again, if you haven't fed your lawn using a feed, weed and mosskiller but you still need to kill the moss.  A product like EverGreen Mosskil Soluble or more traditionally Lawn Sand will do the job.  Apply then wait a few days until the moss turns black.  It's then much easier to rake the moss out of the lawn using a lawn rake.

Take some care - Mosskillers nearly all contain ferrous sulphate (which is iron based) so take care not to get it on your patio as iron can leave a rust like stain which is difficult to get off.

Mowing

Okay, so we were going to get around to mowing eventually right?  There's a variety of different Lawn Mowers to choose from.  Cylinder mowers give the cleanest cut, hover mowers are convenient and mowers will a roller on the back will give you that traditional stripe.  None of them will make your lawn greener, but they all keep it looking crisp and sharp.

It's important when mowing not to leave grass cuttings on the lawn though, so either use a mower with a collection back or rake the clippings up afterwards.  Although they take a long time to rot down, grass cuttings do make excellent compost.

When to Mow the Lawn

As a rule of thumb, and for the best results, mow your lawn every 2 weeks in March and April, then every week until the end of August.  September and October need fourtnightly cuts too.  In November thanks to the variable British weather, your lawn might want one last cut if the weather is still mild.

The Legal Bit

• EverGreen Complete contains MCPA mecoprop-P and ferrous sulphate
• EverGreen Autumn contains ferrous sulphate
• Verdone Extra contains fluxroxypyr clopyralid and MCPA
• EverGreen Mosskil Soluble contains ferrous sulphate
• Lawn Sand contains ferrous sulphate

Always read the label, Use pesticides and herbicides safely.

Chafer Beetles

Chafer Grubs

If you're suffering from brown or yellow patches in your lawn you might be suffering from a common garden pest, the chafer grub.  Chafer grubs look like large maggots and are often mistaken for vine weevils.  They're usually found up to 6 inches below the surface on the lawn and feed on the roots of the grass.

Chafer grubs turn into a red / brown beetle known as the Chafer Beetle, May Beetle or June Beetle - as their common names suggest, they can usually be seen in the garden around May or June.

The Symptoms and Clues

Any time from March - May, usually during a dry spell yellow, brown or dead patches appear in the lawn.  The cause is the chafer grub eating the roots of the grass, preventing the grass drawing enough water from the surrounding soil.

You may also notice birds, foxes or badgers digging or scratching at the surface of the lawn - they're trying to feed on the grubs in the soil.

When the grubs turn into beetles, these are quite often the first visible sign that it's a chafer grub causing the problem in the lawn.  The beetles are often seen 'en mass' late spring (May - June).

Treatment

Provado Lawn Grub Killer

Help is at hand.  Provado Lawn Grub Killer is a contact and systemic insecticide which kills the grubs in the soil and the beetles that the grubs turn into.  The systemic action makes the roots of the grass poisonous to any grub feeding from it.

Use Provado lawn grub killer  in May or June for optimal control of the chafer grub/beetle as this co-incides with the egg laying period of these pests.  When you see the first adult chafer beetles appear - you know it's the perfect time to apply.

One treatment of Provado should protect your lawn all season from the pest.

Safety and Environmental Information

Children and pets need not be excluded from treated areas once dry.  Grazing animals like rabbits and Guinea pigs should be kept away from treated areas for 4 weeks.

The chemical in provado lawn grub killer can be hazardous to bees, always mow the lawn before applying (to remove any flowering weeds like dandelions, buttercups or daisies) and apply in the late evening that way bees won't be around until it has dried.  Do not use when lowering weeds are present.

Do not apply near ponds or streams.

Provado Lawn Grub Killer contains imidacloprid, always read the label, use safely.

Fusarium is a fungus which, although harmless, causes patches of discolouration and bare patches in lawns.  When fusarium first appears in a lawn, you may notice small, brown spots which rapidly spread and leave behind dead patches of grass.

This fungal disease is most often noticed in Autumn, usually October onwards but also in the Spring.

How to Treat Fusarium

You no longer need a specialist to come out and treat this problem, Bayer Garden launched a product called Lawn Disease Control this year which is a systemic lawn fungicide.

Lawn disease control, when mixed with water, can be sprayed onto the lawn to combat fungal diseases that can cause discolouration and bare patches.  Although the product can be used all year round, it should not be applied more than twice per year with a gap of at least 4 weeks between applications.

One box covers an area of 60 sq m.

The Legal Bit

Lawn Disease Control contains trifloxystrobin as a water dispersible granule.  Always read the label.  Use safely.

Red thread is a common lawn disease caused by a fungus.  The first signs of red thread infestation is small circular pink or bleached looking patches in the lawn.  The disease if left unchecked can rapidly expand into larger patches, leaving behind dead grass.

If you look closely at infected areas; small, red, threadlike strands form near the tips of grass blades.  Red thread can easily be identified by looking for the pink colour it creates and leaves behind.

Red thread is at its peak when the weather is warm, usually during the late Spring, Summer and early Autumn.

How to Treat Red Thread

Red thread is best treated at the first signs of infestation using a systemic lawn fungicide like Bayer Garden's Lawn Disease Control.  To my knowledge, this is the only product available at present for home use in the UK.  This fungicide is soluble in water and when mixed into a spray, is effective at  combatting red thread.

As red thread is a fungus, it can spread easily.  It is advisable to treat the whole lawn not just the areas you can see are infected.

To help prevent red thread taking hold, feed your lawn in early spring and summer with a high nitrogen lawn food.

The Legal Bit

Lawn Disease Control contains trifloxystrobin as a water dispersible granule.  Always read the label, use safely.

Lawn aeration refers to the process of creating channels in your lawn that enables air and water to circulate around the soil and grass roots more freely. This benefits your lawn in a number of ways but primarily the enhanced circulation of oxygen and water around the soil promotes deeper root growth, reduces thatch build up, helps your lawn to breathe and should definitely be part of your lawn care regime.

Most lawns will only require aerating when compacted soil becomes a problem. The soil can become compacted in a number of ways but the most common cause is heavy foot traffic, or if you have a soil that contains a lot of clay. Lighter soils that contain more sand and are richer in organic content are far less likely to become compacted unless susceptible to particularly heavy foot traffic.

Why do I need to aerate my lawn?

Over the years your lawn is likely to be become hard and compacted for a number of reasons including being used for sports or as a children's playground. When the soil used on your lawn becomes compacted, the pores which carry air and moisture around become much smaller. This reduced air and moisture infiltration is what eventually damages the health of your lawn.

The roots of your lawn require oxygen and nutrients in order to grow but if the soil becomes too compact for the air to circulate the oxygen can not get to the roots thus causing you problems. The other negative effect caused by heavily compacted soil is your lawns inability to absorb water or moisture to its deep root levels. Lawn aeration may also be required on soils that are made up heavily of clay as the air circulation and infiltration will be much more difficult with this material anyway due to the soils composition.

Poor root development, lack of oxygen and nutrient circulation can all leave your lawn looking a little worse for wear but these are not the only reasons to aerate. Thatch or thatch build-up can cause numerous problems for your lawn but can be combated using core aeration. This works because the cores of soil that are left on the thatch surface after aeration release microorganisms which break down the thatch and return important nutrients to the soil.

What are the Benefits of Lawn Aeration?

• Enhance water infiltration
• Prevent the loss of lawn food or fertilizer due to run off from heavily compacted areas
• Increase water, nutrient and oxygen uptake
• Improve root development
• Encourage decomposition and breakdown of thatch by microorganisms

When do I need to aerate my lawn?

Typically the best time of year to aerate your lawn will be during the spring or autumn season between March and May or September and October, however, the perfect time to aerate your lawn may depend on your location. For gardeners in the UK Spring is the best time for lawn aeration as there will be more light, water and soil resources at this time of year.

One of the best ways to assess whether or not your lawn requires aerating is to remove a section of the lawn and examine how deep the roots are growing into the soil. If the roots are only reaching a couple of inches into the soil then it is likely that the soil is compacted and that it needs aerating.

Another way to test your lawn is to insert a large screwdriver into the lawn and judge how much resistance you receive. If the soil is compacted you it will be very difficult to insert the screwdriver fully and you should think about aeration.

How often do I need to aerate my lawn?

Typically, and according to most experts, you should only have to aerate your lawn once every couple of years but if your lawn is used heavily you may want to consider aerating it at least twice a year.

When you decide to aerate your lawn will also depend on the age of the lawn itself as newly laid turf can benefit immensely from core aeration, although most experts recommend that its should not be aerated in the first year.

The quality of the soil will also determine how often you should aerate your lawn in order to keep it healthy. Aerating your lawn before applying fertilizer will improve the effectiveness of the applied nourishment.

When Should I not aerate my lawn?

Lawns that are not heavily exposed to compaction inducing events may not need aerating and in these instances the natural cycle of winter freezing and thawing and insect movement within the soil will naturally loosen lightly compacted soil anyway.

How do I aerate my lawn?

Lawn aeration can be carried out in a number of different ways and can be done either by hand, using specially adapted lawn aerator shoes or using mechanical lawn aeration machines. Core aeration involves the removal of small cylinder shaped cores which are essentially sucked out of the soil by hollow spikes or tines which are forcibly pushed into the soil by either a mechanical device or hand held or shoe aerator.

Core aerators typically will drill holes in your lawn of approximately 1/2 to 3/4 inch in diameter and 1-6 inches deep and 2-6 inches apart. Core aerators are more heavily recommended for lawns that are particularly compacted, exposed to heavy usage or that are prone to thatch build up.

Other aeration techniques include the insertion of solid spikes into the ground (such as the spikes or tines of a garden fork) into the soil. This method does not remove cores from the soil and is more suitable for lawns that are in better condition or that are aerated frequently.

When aerating your lawn you need to ensure that the soil is moist but not too wet. The moisture will allow the tines to penetrate the soil much deeper but if the lawn is too wet the soil will stick to the hollow tines and limit their effectiveness. If your soil is particularly dry you should thoroughly water it 2 or 3 days before your intend to aerate it allowing the soil to become moist but not soaked.

Where can I get lawn aerating equipment?

You can get your hands on numerous types of lawn aerators from most reputable garden centres with online garden centres offering some of the best deals. Depending on the condition of you lawn a great alternative to mechanical aerators are the cleverly adapted lawn aeration spike shoes which not only help to aerate your lawn but are also a great way to stay fit around the garden. If your lawn demands something a little more powerful then there are plenty of alternatives including rotary lawn aerators and heavy duty hollow tine aerators.

What do I need to do after I have aerated my lawn?

In order to get the most from your aeration efforts it is a good idea to apply a fertilizer or compost to your lawn as the aeration enables the lawn food to be absorbed much easily and the nutrients will be taken straight to the roots.  Also take a look at our Guide to the Perfect Lawn for more helpful ideas.

Green Up Granular Lawn Feed is a high nitrogen granular fertilizer that is suitable for use throughout the spring and summer months. The feed contains all 3 major plant nutrients plus iron and magnesium and can be used to cover up to 100sqm of land.

When applied correctly Granular Lawn Feed can help to maintain grass vigour and produce tougher, more hardwearing lawns suitable for a variety of uses. At a normal cost of £7.95 per box the 2 for £10 offer could save you £5.90!

A spokesperson for Plant Me Now commented on the special offer saying:

Green Up is a well recognised manufacturer of high quality lawn care products and as such is very popular with our customers, which is why we decided to introduce this special offer. The lawn feed needs to be applied at 6 to 8 weeks intervals between March and September and for best results we advise using a calibrated spreader for an even application.

Other Green Up Lawn Care products also included in this special 2 for £10 deal include the Green Up Feed and Weed Plus Mosskiller a triple action lawn treatment that feeds the lawn and controls common lawn weeds at the same time.

The Plant Me Now spokesperson continued:

The Feed and Weed treatment should be applied using a calibrated spreader between April and September. After ten to fourteen days you should be able to rake away dead moss and other debris and re-seed any bare patches to prevent the re-growth of weeds.

For more details or to order your Green Up Granular Lawn Feed please visit www.plantmenow.co.uk or call 01675 442 551